Going Back to the Roots

 

Varanasi or Banaras, the most ancient city…… there are numerous vlogs/posts all over the social media. Information-wise, there is nothing new that I would add but the visit was an experience in itself.

Earlier this year, around February, I mentioned to my husband that I would like to visit Varanasi. I hadn’t been there since 1983. He outright said no since he doesn’t like crowded places. I decided to do a solo trip then, at the onset of the winter.  As days passed, the will seemed to intensify. Perhaps it was a pull of the roots.  They say, that as you grow older, you want to return to your beginning.

In March, while returning home after a semi marathon, I mentioned my plan to 2 of my friends and they both wanted to join me on this trip. And that’s it !!! It was decided that we are definitely doing this.  Now we need to select and finalise the dates and book the tickets, hotels once bookings are open.  There was still a long time 😊.  I was kind of relieved to have them as travel companions since this would have been my first solo trip and there was that wee bit of apprehension at the back of the mind, though these two darlings were dependent on me and had no idea of the works.  Eventually, we had an additional member on the trip, so we were a gang of four over enthusiastic ladies.

This year was an emotional rollercoaster for me with an ailing father, and daughter moving to another city and every time I just hoped and prayed that this trip would culminate successfully.  After all, when you plan to visit a holy city like Varanasi, Lord Shiva’s blessings are necessary. 

A few days before the journey, we heard about Dev Dipawali, a festival celebrated in Varanasi on the day of Kartick Purnima.  I am thoroughly ashamed to confess that I had no idea about this and I was told that we would be missing witnessing the grandeur of the celebration. Finally, the day came and we boarded the train and guess what…… we learned that the day we are supposed to reach was Kartick Purnima and we would be able to watch the spectacle.  Wasn’t the big boss from above planning things for us!! 😎😎

We reached, albeit 4 hours late, but just in time to avoid the total suspension of transportation within the city.  We checked in in our BnB, freshened up, grabbed a quick lunch and we were off to our first stop, the Kaal Bhairav temple.  Being a devotee of Kaal Bhairav and having a fruitful darshan, I was happy to the core.  Now came the part where we were supposed to walk.  We could already see hoards and hoards of people walking towards one particular direction and no prize for guessing ….. the Dashaswamedh ghat.  We followed suit.  Since we were new to the place and had no idea whatsoever about the directions and destinations, we just went wherever people were going.  On the way, I spotted the famous malaiyo (a sweet only available in the winters since dew drops play a vital role in its making).  It was like eating clouds. 

After devouring the cloudy, fluffy sweetness, we continued our march through the ancient and narrow lanes and by-lanes of the city and eventually reached the ghat. AND Oh my GOD!!!! Never in my wildest dream did I imagine that it would be so crowded.  All we could see were human heads.  Both sides of the river banks were beautifully decorated with fairy lights and numerous diyas.  It looked so surreal, I doubt any photo or video footage can do justice to the real beauty.  We managed to bag a place where we could stand secured without being knocked over by the rush of people and watch the ganga aarti.  The next one hour was an experience one needs to feel.  It is beyond my vocabulary to even explain.  After the aarti, was the spectacular display of fireworks.  We left the place early to avoid the mad rush back on completion of the spectacle.   On our way back, we gorged on the various chats the city had to offer, and walked the roads around Godhulia without in particular agenda, just to get the feel of the place.  Tiredness started creeping in by then and we came back to our nest for our nightcap since we had to wake up and get ready by 3.00 am for Kashi Vishwanath darshan the next day.

 

 As per the plan, we woke up in the middle of the night and by 3.30 a.m we were off to the temple in our pre-booked toto.  The queue was already long enough but was moving fast.  After standing in the queue for about 2 hours, we were blessed with a glimpse of Bhole baba, made our offerings, spent some time inside the premises, feeling the energy of the place.  Things were totally different from whatever little I remembered from my childhood visit.  The approach is no doubt very systematic, without any ruckus but the process has become too commercialized.  In my opinion, every devotee should be treated equally at the abode of the Supreme without special treatment for people who can afford VIP passes.  Does God really care about the depth of the pockets of his devotees!! I doubt.

Our next stop was the Batuk Bhairav temple which was absolutely uncrowded and we had a peaceful darshan there, to our heart’s content.  

On our way back to the BnB, it was time for the famous kachori, samosas of Banaras. Breakfast sorted, we came back for a quick stretch and was back on the streets on our way to Sarnath.  Sarnath was a different world altogether.  Quiet and peaceful, contrary to the busy city of Varanasi.  It was as if Varanasi was the seat of action (karma) and Sarnath the seat of oblivion (nirvana).  We took our time exploring the ruins and relics of the place, soaking in the serenity.  

We also visited one of the workshops where the banarasi saree is woven and got a small tutorial on how this age-old traditional yard of finery is made.

By now, the Bong in me was craving for some comfort food, so I asked our autowala to take us to a place where we could get simple dal, chawal and fish.  The driver obliged and we were at a small eating house serving all those.  We had a simple lunch of dal, chawal, potato fries and fried fish.  The food was average but the Bong in me was satiated and did a quick foot-tapping dance in satisfaction🕺.  The autowala dropped us at our BnB for an afternoon siesta.

Evening plans were cut short since one of our friends wasn’t feeling well.  Since we were in the city of temples, we visited the other famous temples of Sankatmochan and Durga Mandir.  We decided to skip the boat ride and kept it for the next time because we will be coming back soon.  The day came to an end after a visit to the famous Pizzeria Vatika Café at Assi Ghat.

                      

The last day was a blur of activities that was no way touristy.  The four of us parted ways and had different ways to go.  Trains were either delayed or diverted so we all went our ways but the trip was absolutely satisfying and fulfilling though I did try and look for that old house that was etched in my memory and failed because it does not exist anymore.  I guess somethings are more pleasant in memory than reality. We all came back with a happy heart 💖.

Abar Aranye (To the Forest …. Again)

Yes, somehow we end up going back to the forests, be it in North Bengal or Purulia or anywhere else in the country, the lush greenery, tall trees and the chaotic silence that comes with it always manage to enchant us.  With the intent of finding an escape from the crazy din of the Durga puja-obsessed city, I went on to browse the travel forums on Facebook. A few swipes later, I chance upon an article on Ghatshila and contact details of a homestay “Abar Aranye”. The pictures were impressive and the review was perfect.  So an instant decision was made to book this place and as per the availability, we arrived there on 22^nd October.

If you are looking forward to a travelogue on the touristy places to visit in Ghatshila like Burudih Dam, Dharagiri Falls, Phuldungri Hill, Pancha Pandav, I am going to disappoint you all because here, I am going to write about the places that people usually do not visit or places unknown.

On the 22^nd we drove down to Ghatshila and reached at around 3.00 PM.  It's approximately 300 km from Kolkata.  We were welcomed by Mrs. & Mr. Ghosh and shown to our rooms. 

After checking in, we sat chatting with the owners, the initial getting to know each other and then our travel preferences. When we informed them that we were interested in some off-beat places, Mr. Ghosh suggested some spots and said they could accompany us on the outing.  So programs were made for the next two days.  That evening I accompanied them to Ramkrishna Misson to see the Sondhi Pujo and was lucky to get some bhog too.  For dinner, we were treated with homemade chicken biryani.

The next morning, after a sumptuous breakfast, we packed the boot of our cars with some dry lunch, a barbecue stand, marinated chicken, charcoal, et al.  We drove for about 25 kms to Musabani town through the forest area where we spotted a perfect place for a hike and our barbeque.  We picked up some beer from the town and also visited the HCL British colony (this place was forbidden for Indians during British Rule).  

After a drive through the town, we came back to our spot (Pathorgora).  We hiked through the shrubs and bushes and found a perfect place to set up the barbecue.  There were enough dry twigs and leaves all around to help set fire and we had quite a picnic in the wilderness.  After a day of jungle mein mangal, we came back to our homestay and after tea and a good rest, our adda continued late into the night.

The third day of our stay was the icing on the cake.  Mr. Ghosh had promised us a natural Jacuzzi treat and we were looking forward to it.  After being done with our breakfast, we walked straight into the scene from “Pather Panchali”, a widespread field of kashphool (they were dry this time of the year) with a railway line in the background.  We crossed the field and came to the banks of a hilly stream. 

                                   

The stream was full of boulders and rocks and water gushed through them.  We went down into the water and found ourselves the perfect places to sit allowing the water to flow through us giving us an ‘Aqua massage’.  Mr. Ghosh even managed to source in some Mahua (local alcoholic drink).  It was the most perfect setting …… water bath paired with mahua.  We spent about 2 – 3 hours there, soaked to the skin but unwilling to get out.  We did leave the place when pangs of hunger reminded us that it was way past lunchtime and mutton curry and rice is waiting for us back home.

Lunch was simple, homely and mind-blowingly tasty comprising of rice, dal, brinjal fry, mutton curry, salad and tomato chutney.  We hogged like people out of famine. Satiated to the core, it was time for some afternoon siesta.  After all this trip was all about a relaxed outing, so don’t judge me people.  The evening was spent indoor talking and planning of an adventure trip with the Ghosh family during the winter.  Since this was our last night here, we sat chatting late into the night and our adda came to an end with the talented Mrs. Ghosh singing a song for us.

This was the narrative of our short trip and it was made perfect by the hosts of our homestay.  We were bowled over by their hospitality and the homestay is a perfect place for people who are working from home and would like a change of place.  The serenity of the place and the slow-paced lifestyle is too tempting. Far away from the hustle and bustle of the city, a comfortable stay with home-cooked meal and lazy strolls amidst nature.  What else can be better for a workplace!!!

 

 

10 days of Solitude

A casual chat with a friend led to chance knowledge about Vipassana. I had never heard of this before and when I came to know about this, my curious mind got active and I looked it up in Google, went to their website and enrolled myself in one of their 10 days workshop. I wanted to explore and experience meditation and the effects of the same.

Vipassana, which means to see things as they really are, is one of India's most ancient techniques of meditation. It was taught in India more than 2500 years ago as a universal remedy for universal ills, i.e., an Art of Living. Unfortunately, this practice got lost in India but was practiced in it's purest form in Myanmar. The practice has been handed down through Guru-Shishya parampara over centuries and was brought back to India in 1968 by Mr. S.N. Goenka and is being practiced all over India ever since. Adorned with this information, I land up at their meditation centre, Dhamma Ganga located at Panihati (West Bengal) on 3rd May, 2023 and register myself. There were people from all walks of life and various age groups, starting from 18 and going up till people in their 70s. I was pleasantly surprised to see how youngsters had come in search of spirituality. 

Day 0 - Once registration was done, we had to put our valuables and mobile phones in lockers assigned to us and deposit the keys to the Management, which would be returned to us after 10 days. Imagine, 10 days without phones and disconnected from the outer world! That was the first challenge. We were assigned our rooms and after that, we gathered in the dining area for the last meal of the day at 6.00 pm. After dinner, we had an orientation session wherein we were briefed about the system, rules and regulations to be followed in the following days ahead. We were to practice noble silence which included any communication through gestures as well. We were to consider that we were living all alone. Another big challenge! The only communication would be with the volunteers (sevak/sevikas), which too is minimal, for help you might need, and with the teacher for anything related to the meditation. After the orientation and a brief introduction to meditation, we retired to our respective rooms for the day. 

Day 1 starts with a wake-up bell at 4.00 AM. By 4.30, we gathered in the meditation hall and the training process started. The first task was to concentrate on your breath...inhalation, exhalation and how and where your breath is feeling in your nasal cavity and the area around it. One needed to stay focussed right there and the mind, the playful nature that it has, was eager to run around all over. One had to forcibly put a leash on it to stay focused. The game of playing truant went on for 2 hours before we got our first break at 6.30 AM. Breakfast was ready at the dining hall and we self-helped and ate in silence in our designated place. After breakfast, we went to our quarters for bathing and other personal chores and had to be back at the meditation hall at 8.00 am to continue meditation till 11.00 AM, when it is time for lunch and rest break. The break was till 1.00 PM. Well fed and well rested, we all scooted to the meditation hall at 1.00 PM to start back to back sittings till 5.00 PM for yet another break which was a very welcome relief from the arduous routine. Back at the dining hall for tea/milk, puffed rice and a fruit, this was the last meal of the day. After eating and a short walk around the campus, I used to go to the room to stretch my back until the bell rang again at 5.50 PM to gather in the hall. By then, the backbone was screaming in protest for making it sit ramrod straight the whole day. But I was there and I had to do what I came for. The evening sessions started at 6.00 PM for an hour long meditation session followed by a one and half hours of discourse, where they showed recorded video of Mr. Goenka addressing us about the technique, the purpose, the process. This was the most interesting part of the whole day and I used to look forward to this sessions for the next 9 days and believe me, I am not a patient person to sit and listen to someone speaking for more than an hour but these talks really managed to keep me hooked. This was followed by another 30 mins meditation session where you are given a glimpse of what you are expected to do the next day. The day ended at 9.00 PM and we retired to our respective rooms, ready to hit the bed.

What a day! Who would have expected that I would endure 10+ hours of sitting, focusing on myself in one place and falling asleep by 9.30 PM. I was discovering myself, wasn't I!! 

This went on for the next 10 days. Through the technique that is taught here, you are first expected follow discipline and the codes of conduct laid down. This helps one to calm their mind and stay focused. Next is to focus on your breath and gain mastery over your mind through that. On the fourth day, when the mind is calm and focused, the practice of Vipassana is introduced : observing sensations throughout the body, understanding their nature, and developing equanimity by learning not to react to them. 

This whole process is too surreal to explain. You introspect yourself at the molecular level by directing all your focus inside of you. Feelings and emotions which are buried deep inside surface out and your body reacts to it, either in the form of sadness or happiness but you are expected to witness it in a neutral way, like a bystander. Sounds weird right? But you actually can and once you do it, your heart feels light, liberated, as if you have just untied a knot. I have witnessed different people reacting in different ways. This is the beauty of the practice, your findings are through your own experience, not influenced by what others have felt. Finally, on the last day participants learn the technique of spreading love, kindness or goodwill towards all through meditation, in which the purity developed during the course is shared with all beings. 

The 10th day had another reason to look forward to. We were given our phones back at 10.00 AM and our silence comes to an end. We get to talk and oh boy how much we talked with strangers who had become family by then. After making calls to our family, we all gathered and started getting to know each other. The routine was slack unlike other days, so we had ample time to talk. The dining hall, especially, which used to have pin drop silence came alive with continuous chatter. To sum it all up, this workshop was an eye-opener in many ways. The takeaway, apart from the learnings, was getting to know a wonderful bunch of people and a few lifelong friends.